The Miracle Cure

The miracle cure

 

It seems to come around every few months – the new miracle solution that’ll fix all your problems!

And it’ll change form depending on which discipline, profession, or individual it is aimed at.

 

The horse industry seems to have a new trend or gadget every few months, claiming to solve every problem; it’ll cure all behavioural elements, prevent any future injuries and in general just make everything perfect!

 

Sometimes it’s an innocent well-wisher, who has developed a product that worked for their situation and wanted to help others, and it became more popular than anticipated.

 

But, a lot of the time, it’s a new business venture, looking to make a big sale.

 

Usually, it won’t cause any harm. And the new fad will replace it in a few months.  

 

However, sometimes the use of a gadget, aid or tool without the proper knowledge or application of its use, can be the beginning of a snowball effect.

 

This is especially true in the rehab/bodyworker world.

 

There are gadgets and machines coming out regularly, claiming to do the work of a physio or chiro, but without the expense.

 

But of course, these gadgets and machines don’t have years of training and experience that we animal professionals have.

 

They can’t tell you when their use is and isn’t appropriate, or how long they should be used for.

 

Obviously, I’ll come at this from a physio perspective …

 

We will know the how, when, where and why of application for any technique.

 

There are contraindications for pretty much every technique, or electrotherapy we use.

 

There are also plenty of times where we will need to think outside of the box to get the best outcome.

 

If a traditional method of treatment is not having the desired effect, we may need to treat elsewhere first or try a different approach.

 

We will also know the typical timelines of progress, and when things need to be toned down or tuned up!

 

These are things that a bought gadget cannot do.

 

And I bring this up now, because there are more and more electrotherapies coming onto the market that have the potential to do significant damage in the wrong hands.

 

Many of these electrotherapies require no training or proof of qualifications to purchase.

 

Anyone with the money can buy them.

 

The one that first worried me (before I was a vet physio) were the equine massage guns.

 

These are a prime example of can be incredibly beneficial, or incredibly damaging.

 

If used incorrectly, or too regularly, they have the potential to cause pain, bruise muscle, damage tendons, and even cause tears at the osteotendinous junction (where the tendon meets the bone).

 

Don’t get me wrong – you should absolutely do things to help your horse! But do them with knowledge, understanding and correct application.

 

Most animal professionals will happily educate you in what to do for the best.

 

What has been coming up more recently are the pulsed electromagnetic (PEME) machines.

Big, £10,000 - £20,000 machines that will cause pulsing in the muscle when passed over a ‘tight’ area.

 

These can be bought by anyone at all, you only need to engage in the online training, and you’re set!

 

This will be very appealing to owners, because they can ‘watch the tension melt away’, as the muscle will cease fasciculation once the tension is gone.

 

A miracle cure indeed! Who needs a physio anymore?

 

Well … what happens if the fasciculation doesn’t stop?  Or if the horse stops tolerating the machine? Or the problem persists after treatment?

 

There’s also the point of contraindications, and the how, why, where, and when?

 

And the biggest point of all – how do you know you’re treating the root cause of the issue, not the compensatory dysfunction?

 

These machines should only be used for a specific amount of time, in a specific time frame, in specific areas, or they can begin to do more damage than good.

 

Now, these machines can absolutely be used by owners and would certainly help the horse in between physio sessions.

 

BUT!

 

They should only be used under the guide of a professional, who can give you a specific treatment programme for the machine.

 

They will also be able to answer questions or give further guidance should things change along the way.

 

There are also people and businesses who will try to sell tools and techniques for treating your horses yourself too.

 

Often this’ll either be a ’4 weeks of poles will strengthen your horse’s core’ or ‘This massage mitt will cure your horses back pain’, or ‘do this stretch every day to improve your horse’s flexibility’.

 

Again, these things aren’t designed to cause damage and are almost always put forwards by people trying to help.

 

But again, you need to take the entire horse into account as to whether these things will actually help or are just kicking a problem down the road.

 

Also, there are some instances where things like pole work can be counterproductive.

 

For example: If you have a horse with OA of the hocks, raised poles can contribute to OA flare ups and pain.

 

However, having said that, pole work can also be beneficial for OA – but you need to know the hows, whens, and whys.

 

This is why us physios are needed! 🙋🏼‍♀️

 

Similarly, for stretches, plenty of people could do with stretching their horses more frequently.

 

However, if you’re not doing it correctly, you can cause microtraumas to joints and end up straining muscles and tendons.

 

Even everyday things like Cyro and thermotherapy need to be applied in the correct circumstance.

 

The very basics are:

-        Heat make blood come to area

-        Cold make blood go away from area

 

But you need to know the timings, application, and appropriateness for these things to ensure they will be beneficial.

 

The hows, whens, wheres, and whys!

 

I’m sure you can see a pattern forming here with each point I bring up!

 

Owners should absolutely be involved in their horse’s rehabilitation, everyday maintenance, and performance enhancement.

 

My only request would be to consult a professional first, before implementing something completely new.

 

Especially if it’ll cost you money!

 

Most equine professionals will happily give you advice without charge, but if an assessment is required first, that is also beneficial, as it’ll give you a starting point and will allow you to know what you improve on first.

 

And when I say professional, I mean someone who is qualified, and registered with appropriate bodies who will give advice.

 

I make this point as there are plenty of people who are buying electrotherapy machines and are charging to treat horse who are entirely unqualified.

 

Ensure to look for qualifications, registrations, and memberships, and don’t be afraid to ask for details!

If someone is ‘certified’ that doesn’t necessarily mean they are trained, it can just mean they’ve taken the online course that came with the machine.

 

Thank you so much for taking the time to read my blog.

 

I would love to hear your thoughts in the comments about topics you’d like me to write about, or any suggestions to improve my blogs.

 

For any other information, or to book a veterinary physiotherapy appointment, please contact me directly.

 

All the best,

Emma, The Biomechanic.

BSc(Hons), FdSc, MIRVAP, RAMP

07861195709

emma@the-biomechanic.co.uk

www.the-biomechanic.co.uk

Preparing for a Puppy

It has to be one of the best feelings in the world! Its finally time, you’re bring home your new puppy!

 

But what have you done to prepare?

 

I imagine you’ve done the usual:

-        New bed

-        Matching bowls

-        Cute collar and lead

-        Toys

-        Treats

-        Food

-        Poo bags (So, so many poo bags!)

But have you thought of these in depth?

 

The size, thickness, and material of bed?

 

The height and depth of the bowls?

 

The thickness & material of the collar? The length of the lead?

 

The type and variety of toys?

 

The type of treats & the calorie count?

 

The brand of food?

 

… The poo bags are probably fine!

I know these things seem trivial, but little adjustments and changes can help your puppy grow and develop in the best way.

 

For example, if you are getting a small breed puppy, you don’t want a huge, high bed for them.

 

Leaping in and out of it, or the thick & soft padding, that doesn’t give much support whilst they sleep may have negative effects of the musculoskeletal system.

 

Probably nothing that’ll affect them right now, but these small changes during growth, can have a massive impact in later life.

 

Now, I don’t want to go into each little aspect of ‘should’ & ‘shouldn’t’ of owning a puppy.

 

There isn’t a ‘one size fits all’ method & every dog breed, and owner combination will have differences.  

 

But I do have a few key points that I really think should be considered for a young puppy:

-        Using a fitted harness over a collar for walks

-        Having a variety of toy textures

-        Calorie intake

-        Exercise amount

-        Home environment

 

Using a harness over a collar

 

When a puppy is learning to walk on a lead, they are going to make mistakes.

 

Most commonly, they are going to forget they are on a lead & go to chase after the bird that just flew off, or see the cat over there, or run for that dropped piece of cheese!

 

When this happens, their quick burst of speed will come to an abrupt halt when they reach the end of the lead.

 

[Just as a side note – do not use retractable leads on a collar! You’re asking for a broken neck!]

 

You can imagine the effects this abrupt halt would have on the delicate tissues and developing neck vertebrae.

 

It is much better to use a fitted harness at this stage.

It will spread the forces by the abrupt half across the breastbone of the chest, a much larger surface area, reducing the chance of injury.

 

Its is very important to get a harness fitted correctly, or you run the risk of damaging the front legs, base of neck and pectoral muscles.

 

Once the puppy can walk on the lead correctly, you can return to just a collar.

 

Having a variety of toy textures

 

This is something I discovered when I got my dog, Poppy. She was 8 weeks old when I got her and was my first puppy. (Hence why her pictures are all the way through this blog!)

 

I would take her to weekly puppy classes at our local vet, this was so beneficial to get her socialising with other puppies, asking the host questions and sharing stories with other puppy owners.

 

Teething was one of main concerns, as I was in a rented property & couldn’t risk her chewing up doors and skirting boards. I also wanted to avoid as much of the puppy nipping as possible!

 

This is where I was told to have a variety of toys, as these will help with teething both from a physical and behavioural standpoint for the puppy. 

You want 3 main types of toy:

-        Big, soft, and squashy.

-        Firm, but with some give – i.e., rubber teething toys.

-        Hard – i.e., deer antlers.

As puppies go through teething, they’ll experience different levels of discomfort, sometimes it’ll be a sharper, stabbing pain, sometimes it’ll be a dull ache.

 

Having a variety of toy textures to mouth on, can alleviate some of this discomfort, it can also be good for redirection of behaviour.

 

For example - If the puppy is desperately trying to chew on the sofa – try to redirect with the soft, squashy toy.

 

It was something that Poppy really appreciated & I’m proud to say that she didn’t destroy anything in the house … although she did shred the bobble off my favourite bobble hat!

 

Calorie intake

 

This is one to check with your vet when taking the puppy for their check-ups and vaccinations.

 

Of course, growing puppies need plenty of nutrition to give then the energy they need to play and grow.

 

But, it is possible to over feed them.

An overweight puppy will be putting additional strain on bones and joints that are not fully formed yet.

 

They may also be less inclined to exercise enough, further preventing optimum development for joints, bones and muscles.

 

On the opposite end of the scale, underweight puppies will also have trouble developing.

 

This can lead to stunted growth and bone deformities due to the lack of nutrition, they will also have less energy and may not develop their soft tissues correctly.

 

Most brands of puppy food will have feeding guidelines on the packet.

 

These will allow you to work out how much to feed based on the puppy’s breed, size, sex, and exercise level.

 

Again, but sure to consult with the vet if you believe your puppy may be under or overweight.

 

Exercise amount

 

Now, this is a tricky one.

 

A lot of vets will give you a guideline of ‘5 minutes of exercise per month of age, once or twice a day’

 

This is excluding free play with toys and other dogs – however excessive running and rough play with older or bigger dogs should be monitored and limited where necessary.

 

This isn’t a bad outline and gives owners a base line to work with.

 

The idea is to prevent over-exertion which can place too much strain on a growing musculoskeletal system.

 

However, this really needs to be dependent on the dog’s breed, temperament, and their home environment. i.e., a puppy who has access to a large garden, may require less focused exercise than a puppy who is living in a small flat with a balcony.

 

For some, this will be too little exercise in the day, possibly leading to destructive behaviours due to boredom and excessive energy.

 

For others, this could be too much, resulting in excess strain on a delicate, growing musculoskeletal and cardiovascular system.

 

The best thing is to observe your puppy and see how they behave during exercise and what they seem to prefer. Of course, if you are unsure, it is best to consult with your vet, or a certified dog trainer.

 

Home environment

 

I imagine that many of you with a puppy incoming would have ‘puppy-proofed’ the house as much as possible.

 

Ensured that breakable, valuable and electrical wires were out of the way, and given the puppy a designated space to sleep and play when unsupervised.

 

However, there are a few extra little bits to consider that are very important when considering puppy growth and health.

 

The first one is slippy floors – wood, lino, tiles etc.

Now, I understand this is a bit of a conundrum, as puppies are going to accidently toilet in the house, and a hard floor is considerably easier to clean than a carpet or rug!

 

But these slippy floors mean that the puppy is much more likely to slip, and injure themselves. Especially when they are running and playing.

 

The best thing to do, is buy cheap runners from home bargains, or a similar store.

 

These are often machine washable and provide additional grip, allowing a safer area for your puppy (and older dogs too!)

 

Slippy floors are also a real danger on stairs.

 

Of course, if your puppy is going to live downstairs, this is a moot point.

 

But those of you (us) that have our dogs in bed with us, the stairs are an important consideration.

 

Having a carpet runner going up the stairs will significantly help with traction, reducing the risk of slips and falls.

 

Similarly, the staircase pictured below, is every animal professional’s worst nightmare!

 

When a dog is travelling down these stairs, its very easy for a front leg to slip backwards and end up between the steps.

 

The momentum of the dog falling forwards will then likely result in a clean facture of the radius or ulna, and possible dislocation of the shoulder or elbow joint.

 

It may sound extreme but sadly is fairly common with these staircases.

 

Stairs themselves should always be ascended and descended slowly by puppies; very young puppies should be carried.

 

This is due to the strain that running up or downstairs can put on the lower back, hip joints, and forelimbs.

 

 These are my main considerations for young puppies.

 

Again, I thoroughly recommend consulting with an animal professional whilst your puppy is growing and training, as it will allow you to ask questions and get advice.

Thank you so much for taking the time to read my blog.

 

I would love to hear your thoughts in the comments about topics you’d like me to write about, or any suggestions to improve my blogs.

 

For any other information, or to book a veterinary physiotherapy appointment, please contact me directly.

 

All the best,

Emma, The Biomechanic.

BSc(Hons), FdSc, MIRVAP, RAMP

07861195709

emma@the-biomechanic.co.uk

www.the-biomechanic.co.uk

My thoughts on Kissing Spines

Before I get into it, I just want to note that these are my thoughts, feelings, and opinions based on experiences from being a groom for over 10 years and my vet physio degree. Each person will have their own experiences and opinions, and there will be many other professionals who are much more practised is kissing spines (KS) anatomy, symptoms, and treatment than me.

 

Basically – don’t take my word as gospel!

 

KS seems to be something that’s become very prevalent in the horse industry over the last few years.

 

I remember when I first became a groom, that it wasn’t thought of as being that common, and it was a very extreme thing when diagnosed.

 

Now, for the question of, has it always been fairly common? Or are we just finding a new thing to hyper-focus on?

 

I’d suggest that KS has always been fairly prevalent, (especially in competition horses), but would be under a different name or condition.

 

I remember in the riding school I used to go to as a 10-year-old, an Arab cross who I’d have lessons on (called Aussie, who was awesome!) was described to me as ‘cold backed’.

 

Whenever I’d ride him, I’d be told to give him a long walk around and allow him to stretch his neck so he’d be ready to work.

 

Obviously, as an innocent 10-year-old, I just took this as truth and did as I was told.

 

Over the years, I’ve seen a few horses described as ‘cold backed’ or ones who need to have a lunge first with the saddle on to ‘get the bucks out’.

 

When I was young and inexperienced, I just assumed that this was common practise, and didn’t really think much of it.

 

But as I’ve grown, I’ve realised that a fair few of these horses probably actually had a degree of KS, or some other back related issue.

 

Don’t get me wrong, I am fully aware that there are plenty of reasons besides KS, why a horse would need a long warm up, or extra preparation to be ridden.

 

And, as I get into talking about KS, I am mostly referring to competition and sport horses – ones who have been backed at a young age & have had a full-on career.

 

Like a lot of equine diagnosis, and conditions. Once you hear the word ‘kissing spines’ you immediately think; big problem, years or months of rehab, surgery, vet bills, financial loss, stress, they’ll never be the same again!

 

But, KS has a large amount of degree, it can be very subtle, to very severe. Typically, the horse will be showing significant behavioural changes before we even get close to severe.

 

I truly believe, that for the most part, KS is preventable.

 

I think that a majority of the time, it comes from horses being backed too early.

 

If you look at the above picture, a horses’ skeletal growth plates do not finish closing until they are 6+. And the last ones to close are along the spine.

 

I imagine you can tell where I’m going with this …

 

Many sport horses, racehorses in particular, are backed and worked as young as 18 months old!

 

At that age, the growth plates are not even halfway through closing, and now they have weight on their back & are expected to work.

 

I worked with a lovely ex-racer, called Robbie, who retired from his racing career at 3 years old … RETIRED at 3 years old.

 

It’s horrible to think how early he must have been backed & how much stress his body must have been under in those early years.

 

And did he have KS?

 

Of course he did.

 

He also had chronic stomach ulcers, a deformed front superficial digital flexor tendon, and wind sucked.

 

He did have a successful eventing career and was a very kind soul. (Which is probably the only reason he was able to continue being ridden!)

 

But I believe that his KS could have been completely prevented, if he had been backed later in life & at a slower rate, with focus on maintaining his strength and comfort.

 

He also may not have had his other issues, which may have been a direct result of his KS.

 

I understand this is only one example, and there will be some horses that are backed this young with no issues. But lets be honest, those are the exceptional ones.

 

And to me, it makes perfect sense.

 

KS is the dorsal spinous processes of the vertebrae, touching or rubbing against each other.

If you have a young spine, that is not fully formed, and is no-where near at full strength, and then you put weight on it & ask them to gallop, jump, canter in circles. Surely it stands to reason that it’ll deform?

 

I know many people won’t be the ones to back their horses, they’ll purchase them at a later age, so therefore have no control over this early backing.

 

But there are things that can be done, with younger horses especially, to manage KS conservatively or to prevent it becoming an issue.

 

This biggest thing is to look after your horses back!

 

My earlier blogs about warm up, cool down, stretching, and turnout will all aid with back health.

 

They are all small things that most would shrug at, claiming that’s too small to make a difference.

 

But it is the small things that make all the difference!

 

Little bits over time that make or break any horse.

 

Their development of KS wouldn’t have happened during one ride.

 

It would have happened over months of 20-30 minute rides 5-6 days a week. That can have an impact for the rest of their lives.

 

And of course, regular physiotherapy treatments can make a massive difference to horses with KS.

 

Treatment plans, exercises, electrotherapy, stretches and manual therapy can increase the spaces between the vertebrae, and ongoing care can ensure they stay apart.

 

And those that are more severe, and require surgery – physiotherapy is crucial in the recovery!

 

If you suspect your horse has KS, your first port of call must be the vet.

 

A vet physio cannot diagnose this (or any) condition, it requires an X-Ray to diagnose.

 

If your vet physio suspects KS, they should refer back to your vet for investigation.

 

Once the vet has diagnosed KS, then conservative, or surgical care can be discussed, and your horse can have the care they need.

 

But be aware!

 

Veterinary surgeons and veterinary physiotherapists can sometimes differ in their opinion of whether a case should be treated surgically or conservatively.

 

Often, a mild case will not require surgery, whereas a severe case almost always will.

 

It’s your responsibility to listen to both parties and go with whichever treatment option suits you and your horse best.

 

Ultimately, both parties should have your horses best interests in mind and should support whichever direction you choose to take.

 

Thank you so much for taking the time to read my blog.

 

I would love to hear your thoughts in the comments about topics you’d like me to write about, or any suggestions to improve my blogs.

 

For any other information, or to book a veterinary physiotherapy appointment, please contact me directly.

 

All the best,

Emma, The Biomechanic.

BSc(Hons), FdSc, MIRVAP, RAMP

07861195709

emma@the-biomechanic.co.uk

www.the-biomechanic.co.uk

Is stabling really reducing incidence of injury?

 

Back in my grooming days, I worked with a large range of horses from all sorts of disciplines.

 

I’ve worked with; hunters, showers, show jumpers, happy hackers, eventers, racers, western reiners, and everything in-between!

 

What a lot of the owners of these horses had in common was the mentality of ‘I keep them stabled, so they don’t injure themselves’

 

Or …

 

‘I keep them stabled because it’s easier’

 

And I remember, even when I was inexperienced, thinking that surely that wasn’t right.

 

Horses are roaming animals, their bodies are quite literally designed for efficient movement over distance.

 

Even their digestive tract works most optimally with movement!

 

As I became more knowledgeable of all things horse, I realised that stabling may not be as ‘safe’ as assumed by many owners.

 

Stabling can have negative effects on:

-        Bone health

-        Joint health

-        Muscle health

-        Hoof health

-        Ligaments and tendons

-        Back comfort

-        Post-exercise recovery

-        Behavioural issues & stereotypies

-        Increased risk of injury during exercise

-        Respiratory health

 

Naturally, I’ll dive into all these shortly!

                                     

Now, I am not naïve.

 

I do understand that there are instances where stabling is the most beneficial (and sometimes the only) way of keeping your horses.

 

I know some horses do not tolerate turnout as well as others.

 

Some livery yards do not offer year-round turnout.

 

Some horses have health complications where excessive turnout may not be in their best interest.

 

And some horses are just so, very accident prone!

 

However, it is those who deem stabling is the best option for themselves, rather than the horse, that may be mistaken with their thinking.

 

When I have worked with incredibly expensive show-jumpers and racehorses, I can understand the thinking of ‘I don’t want this half-million-pound horse breaking it’s leg in the field!’

 

However, these horses are only worth this price due to their ability, and performance.

 

They are typically younger horses, who can repair and regenerate more efficiently than older horses.

 

And, like humans, they can typically ‘get away’ with more, when they are younger.

 

So I bring into the argument – if the longevity and performance of this horse is likely to decrease due to excessive stabling, surely that puts a higher risk on the horse losing it’s value?

 

I understand that not everyone looks at horses with the intent to sell for profit, but for the purposes of this rant … sorry, blog! I’ll maintain the example.

 

So what is it that makes stabling so damaging? Surely if they’re moving less, there is less incidence of injury?

 

Well, I’m afraid it is exactly that limited movement that induces the risk of injury!

 

I will break down and summarise the risks with the aforementioned negative effects on the mind and body:

 

Bone health

 

The overall effect is that excessive stabling can affect bone mass, strength and density.

 

This is due to the limited movement, bone is not being stressed, and therefore isn’t regenerating as it should.

 

There has also been evidence of a reduced mineral content within the bone, even with additional calcium supplements.

 

Joint health

 

Prolonged stabling reduced mobility, and increases stiffness of joints.

 

This is partly due to the lymphatic system relying on movement to circulate fluid and induce lymphatic drainage. Reduced movement can cause swelling and inflammation around joints.

 

This reduced circulation can also impede the delivery of essential nutrients to the synovial fluid within joints.

 

Muscle health

 

Underused muscle will begin to atrophy, the age old saying of ‘use it, or lose it!’

 

The muscle strength, elasticity and mass will decline with limited movement.

 

There is also less need for horses to engage core muscles, as feed and water will typically be in the same place, at the same height. It is good core strength that is the foundation for so much of the horses performance and ability.

 

There has also been links between prolonged stabling and the incidence of ‘tying-up’. Often due to confined rest, with no reduction in energy intake, followed by exercise.

 

Hoof health

 

Excessive time on damp bedding, or over-exposure to ammonia, can break down the hoof wall structure, leading to infections and abscesses.

 

On the other hand, if the hoof is perpetually in a dry environment, the hoof wall becomes susceptible to become dry and brittle, leading to cracks.  

 

The hoof wall naturally expands and contracts with each step, reducing movement reduced this natural flexion.

 

Ligaments and Tendons

 

These tissues need to be stressed to maintain their elasticity and flexibility.

 

The limited movement can also affect the cellular homeostasis of the tissues. Improper movement can lead to an imbalance of collagen synthesis and organisation, potentially weakening tissue and increasing incidence of injury.

 

Prolonged standing on hard floors can increased the concussive forces on tissues, resulting in microtraumas.

 

Back comfort

 

Linking back to the reduced core strength, this will have a direct impact of back comfort.

 

Again, due to the limited movement, the large muscles through the back can begin to atrophy, become tense, or go into spasm.

 

The back is also less likely to go through its natural range of motion, potentially causing muscle shortening. This is especially important if you are expecting you horse to work ‘long and low’ under saddle.

 

Post-exercise recovery

 

My previous blogs have mentioned the importance of a good warm up and cool down.

 

In part, this encourages the lactic acid build up from exercise to drain, the muscles to cool, and the heart rate and blood pressure to return to resting levels.

 

By stabling too soon after exercise, none of these things can happen efficiently.

 

Potentially leading to delayed onset muscles soreness, tying-up and sub-optimal circulation.

 

Behavioural issues and Stereotypies

 

There are several behavioural issues that are found commonly in stabled horses, and rarely in pasture horses:

-        Weaving

-        Cribbing

-        Wind sucking

-        Box walking

 

Stabled horses can also have higher levels of aggressive behaviours and frustration.

 

Increased risk of injury during exercise

 

The built-up energy from prolonged stabling may all come a head during exercise.

 

Bucking, bolting, rearing, and leaping can all lead to injury. (And life-choice questioning for the rider! – we’ve all been there!)

 

If young horses are not exposed to a variety of surfaces, gradients and textures that come from turnout (and hacking) they may lack balance and coordination needed for negotiating different terrain, or obstacles during exercise. Potentially leading to slips, trips and over-extension.

 

Respiratory health

 

Just as ammonia is damaging for hooves – excessive inhalation of ammonia is incredibly damaging for the airways.

 

Dust from bedding, and dry hay can also cause damage when inhaled.

 

If multiple horses are kept in one space (such as an American style barn) the risk of contracting air-borne diseases is increased.

 

So! Lots of potential physical and mental drawbacks to stabling.

 

However, so many of these can be combated with turnout!

Even a few hours a day can make an incredible difference.

 

In a perfect world, I believe that horses should have permanent access to both pasture and the stable, so they can choose where they are most comfortable.

 

Of course, we’d all love to live in the perfect world! But most of us have to do the best with what we have.

 

If turnout is not available to you, you should try to encourage as much movement as possible.

 

Walkers, turnout in the arena or lunge pen, groundwork, hacking, in-hand walks. Are all ways to increase movement if turnout is not an option.

 

Also, boredom busters in the stable are good for those who are on box rest for and injury. Hay balls, treat balls, ice, equine toys, puzzles etc. can all help to combat boredom and reduce incidence of negative behaviours and stereotypies.

 

Well, that turned out to be a lot longer that I anticipated!

 

I imagine if you got this far, you can tell that this is something I’m quite passionate about!

 

Thank you so much for taking the time to read my blog.

 

I would love to hear your thoughts in the comments about topics you’d like me to write about, or any suggestions to improve my blogs.

 

For any other information, or to book a veterinary physiotherapy appointment, please contact me directly.

 

All the best,

Emma, The Biomechanic.

BSc(Hons), FdSc, MIRVAP, RAMP

07861195709

emma@the-biomechanic.co.uk

www.the-biomechanic.co.uk